On the road to Santiago de Compostela - 222
Saturday, October 24, 2009 at 4:11PM
In the early-morning darkness in the courtyard at my parador in Santiago de Campostela, the sound of my footsteps was much too loud on the 16th century stone slabs. No one else was around and the only other sound was the water running through the stone fountain at the center of the outdoor space. It was still dark in Spain’s region of Galicia as I walked out into the cool October morning. When the bell tolled the hour at a nearby cathedral, the sound of my footsteps faded into the background.
It’s easy, too, in this historic space, for the modern world to fade into the background. The history is what it’s all about at this hotel that was built in the 1500s to service the religious pilgrims traveling to Santiago to honor the apostle James. His remains are believed to be housed in the Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela, just a few steps from the Parador Hostal de los Reyes Catolicos. The paradores are a collection of luxury hotels across Spain set in historic buildings such as castles, palaces and monasteries.

But historical significance doesn’t mean that modern amenities are cast aside. An elaborately detailed architectural facade is the parador’s face to the rest of the world, and you can imagine that it looks much as it did to the pilgrims who arrived during the Middle Ages. Inside, of course, is where the changes are evident. You can choose to take an elevator or walk up a flight of ancient stone steps to get to your room. Inside, the furnishings feature lots of wood, stone and tapestry for a period feel. But there’s free wi-fi, high-powered showers and a television and mini-bar. And electricity and telephones, of course. After all, comfort would suffer if modern conveniences were sacrificed in the name of history.

And who wants that on vacation?
An elaborate buffet breakfast is served each morning that is very much like a U.S.-style brunch. Meats and cheeses share table space with many varieties of hearty breads, fresh fruit, egg dishes and even caviar. There are yogurts and cereals, potatoes, cakes and pastries, and even a small salad one day. Fortification enough for a modern-day traveler in search of a little history, or maybe even a bit of jewelry.
Disclosure: This press trip was funded by Spanish tourism offices. For more information, check out www.spain.info. Galavanting contributors and editors always do our best to give an honest review of all destinations and locations visited.
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Terri Colby is a Chicago-based freelance journalist and former Travel and Books editor for the Chicago Tribune. She’s serious about traveling the world but Chicago is the only place she would ever call home. You can reach her at terricolby@gmail.com.
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