From scouting for the freshest ingredients to the way food is prepared and presented in both restaurants and private homes, Japanese people are serious about their fish.

There is a restaurant in the Tsukiji Fish Market that is hidden in the back of the market. One Saturday evening for dinner, I went with my cousin and many of his friends.  We entered a deserted warehouse area where the motorized fishmonger carts are parked. In the darkness we saw a fabric doorway and opened the door to a smoky, rustic space. A large table was waiting for us in back. The meal consisted of the most colorful fish dishes and you can’t get much fresher seafood than in a fish market! This hidden gem impresses even the toughest Japanese business professional at dinner. 

The market in daylight is as different as, well, night and day. The deserted market from the night before had sprung to life becoming a fish-filled wonderland of beauty and horrors. If you wake up early and hit the market around 5 am, you can witness a tuna auction. Sometimes these auctions are closed to the public, so check with a local before heading out so early. Inside the bustling market is row after row of stalls with every variety of seafood you can imagine (and some you can’t). Every few stalls we found a fishmonger decapitating eels or ripping out fish guts – most of these market workers have been in the fish business for generations.  The transportation carts zip from aisle to aisle moving inventory and replenishing ice. 

Daily wear and tear are starting to affect the market and there is some contension over whether to repair the aging building or build a new warehouse.  While no official decision has been made, one thing is for sure - the tradition of fresh seafood will continue.

_______________________________________________

Born and raised in California, Julie Wolfson loves to explore at home in Los Angeles and around the world. She is the Lifestyle Editor for LAist and an arts educator for inner-city children.  Most days you’ll find Julie exploring Southern California with her husband and two young daughters and planning their next adventure.
 
She is proud to have recently caught a five pound fish off the coast of Dana Point and to have a new scar on her foot from a spectacularly klutzy moment during her first surfing lesson.

Follow Julie on Twitter >>