Savory, Spiritual and Sensual San Antonio

Everything’s a little bigger in Texas. At least, that’s the way the old saying goes. Is it true? Well, I will say that everything is a little bit different in Texas. As soon as I stepped off the plane, I realized that things are a little slower, a little more glamorous and definitely a little bit nicer.

I was hosted by Visit San Antonio so that I could experience one of the city’s new Eat, Pray, Love tours, designed to show tourists and sophisticated travelers (not independent of one another mind you) that all the experiences in the Elizabeth Gilbert tome, from savory to spiritual to sensual are available in San Antonio (how’s that for alliteration?)

To this California girl, the oppressive heat of the Texas sun was a welcome respite after a few hours on the (always) chilly plane. A self-proclaimed “airport guerrilla” I struggled to speed to the baggage checkout, so I could zip over to the rental and hightail it to my swank hotel. Unfortunately, Texas has other plans for me. As people chatted, said hello and generally “mosey-ed” down the jetway, I gave up trying to rush and gave myself over to the lacksadaisical pace of the place.

After a leisurely check-in and a profanity laced discussion with the GPS in my Dodge Caliber (black, tinted windows, that’s how I roll), I made my way to the Hotel Valencia, where check-in was a breeze. And while the goodie bag (complete with drool worthy leather journal and Fodor’s travel guide) was probably for travel bloggers only, the other pleasant surprises awaiting me are available to all those who want to experience the “Eat Pray Love” um…experience. A lovely cabernet and cheese plate awaited me in my room as well as a hand delivered copy of the best-seller. And that night, voila! a rose covered bed awaited me when I checked in…alone.

But that’s the idea no? If you’ve not read the book (or seen an advance screening of the movie, which is coming out Aug. 13th starring the incomparable Julia Roberts), the concept is this: At the end of her rope, Liz, leaves her messy divorce and attempts at love behind her and just travels…to Italy, India and Indonesia to find pleasure. The idea of this trip, MY TRIP, was to se if I could get a taste (if you will) of that same pleasure savoring, spiritually enlightening, life-balancing journey in a few short days and in one culturally diverse location.

It took nearly two days for me to even begin exploring San Antonio outside of the Riverwalk. The San Antonio River, loops around the bustling dowtown area, which, if the construction is any indication, is growing at a seriously impressive rate. However, a quick jaunt down the easily accessible stairways or ramps will lead you to a shady, calm and serene collection of shops, restaurants and walkways that all sidle up to the river that’s so loopy, Native Americans gave it the moniker “Drunk Man Going Home”. But the effect is very different from a grizzled old drunkard. It’s closer to the curvy dark haired woman in the corner, who miraculously stays cool, while everyone else is sweating through their cheap touristy t-shirts.

While on the Riverwalk, I did my best to sample every single one of the many, MANY restaurants, here are the ones that really fulfilled the EAT part of my mission:

Mi Terra- This place is a MUST visit for anyone in San Antonio. From the baked on the premises sopapillas to the mouthwatering enchiladas verdes, the food is delicious but can take a back seat to the absolutely over the top decor and atmosphere. Live salsa band? Check. Servers in authentic Mexican costume? Check. Silver Christmas trees decked out in tinsel and lights year round? Check. Not one wall (including the ceiling) is left uncovered. And for all this on a Sunday night? The prices are incredible. Dinner for three will set you back around 60 bucks (with Margaritas!)

Acenar- Located with a gorgeous terrace overlooking the Riverwalk, this bar/restuarant has the friendliest bar staff, most colorful decor (in SA, that’s saying something) and spicy appetizers, in keeping with their tagline: “Hot Food, Cool Bar”. Not terribly pricey, but bring your tipping purse to ensure that the fun and upbeat staff get their due.

La Gloria at The Pearl Brewery- Wanna have street food without the pesky terror of intestinal issues? Head over to La Gloria, one of San Antonio’s newest and most celebrated eateries. You won’t get two tacos for $3, but you will get to dine on delicious, traditional foods prepared by Chef Johnny Hernandez in a lovely historical building. Try the Cocletes and it IS in a brewery, you have to have un cerveza bien friza.

COCO Chocolate Lounge- What happens when you plop a Frenchman in Texas? He creates one of the most sumptuous, dark, delicious, chocolate-y experiences you can imagine. Pierre “loves women” (but he’s married ladies, hands off) and it’s obvious, because nearly everything on the menu has some element of cocoa. For a truly luxuriant experience, get the Oysters, a chocolate martini and perch yourself in the red velvet swing…yes, swing. I’m not putting down how much it costs because it doesn’t even matter. GO.

Citrus- The fact that it was downstairs from my room helped get me there, but it was the incredible food that kept me there. Dining at Citrus is not cheap, but it’s also home to some incredibly inventive and delicious food. While there I dined on tiny little quail, summer squash soup and the most delicious blueberry drizzled spongecake I’ve ever had (that list isn’t very long but it was good). Dining there is dark, relaxing, intimate and you won’t feel bad for ordering four desserts. At least I didn’t.

Luxury is not something that San Antonio lacks. The seventh largest city in the U.S., it has the feel of a smal town, with every resident, from the tourist laden Alamo area to the gorgeous wine country nearby, are as friendly and open as if you too, resided in the city.

Speaking of wine country, I headed out to Becker Vineyards, one of the many vineyards located off Highway 290 (which may surprise you as being the #2 Wine Destination in America). There’s something incredibly liberating about a road trip down rural backroads you’ve never driven and when the tires of my rental crunched on gravel outside the lavender fields that surround the vineyards, I knew I was in the right place. After sampling, several, of their award winning wines, I got a tour of the wine cellar. There’s just something about those caskets. For a $10 tasting fee, you get a souvenir glass and several generous sips of their wines. Becker has custom art for many of their wine labels, and even one painted for his wife, Bunny. Just make sure you take a teensy walk around the lavender fields for some sobering aromatherapy before driving. Or you can spit, which I did, many times.

No trip to San Antionio would complete without a trip to the….SPA! Ha! Gotcha you thought I was going to say something else didn’t you? We’ll get there. Patience. Slow it down, San Antonio style.

I spent a good deal of time on the Eating portion of my journey, so as a quick but relaxing quick homage to the pray part, I nabbed a spot at the local Watermark Spa, located inside the luxurious Watermark Hotel. The only four-star spa in downtown San Antonio. In true Eat Pray Love style, I’d been walking the cobblestones of San Antonio for two days and dancing in their saucy little nightclubs for two nights, which is good for the soul, but hard on the body. So I opted for an hour long deep tissue massage and a soak in the hot tub afterward. It did wonders for rejuvenating my inner explorer and in two hours, I was back on the streets looking for ways to indulge my LOVE side.

Since I’m married, I couldn’t find a Brazilian like the real Liz, so I opted for Mr Ice Cream and the heroic wonders that the Alamo always works on me. I used to visit San Antonio as a child and we always visited the Alamo. Smack dab in the middle of the city, you could trip over this piece of American history if you’re not careful. As I walked the cool, dark depths of the fort where Tejanos defended their ground. If the history of the space is oft-debated, there is no doubt that a visit to the Alamo will awe and maybe even inspire you.

In my four days in San Antonio, I’d walked and driven to so many interesting places. I felt like I only touched the tip of the iceberg on this vibrant, friendly city. A welcome respite for the solo traveler, it was also obviously a family destination and, I learned on my dinner cruise (catered by another delicious restaurant, Boudro’s: Best Mashed Potatoes in San Antonio, hands down) couples traveling together.

Do you want to experience San Antonio on an Eat Pray Love Tour? Well, we’re giving one away. Visit San Antonio has partnered with GoGalavanting.com to take one lucky winner to San Antonio for a two-night stay at Hotel Valencia and hit some of my favorite hot-spot eateries and attractions. You’ll receive rose petal turn down service, a copy of the Eat Pray Love book for you as well! Airfare is included, so if you’re in need of a little retreat, let us know.

How to win:

1) Comment on this post: Whether it’s your favorite part of the book, what you’re most looking forward to in the movie or what you like best about the trip, tell us in the comments!

2) Tweet this post and include “I want to Eat, Pray, Love like @galavanting!”

3) Become a fan of Galavanting on Facebook

That’s it! We’ll choose one lucky winner on September 1, 2010!

PS: Don’t forget to come back and watch our mini GTV webisode on my San Antonio adventure!

I went to San Antonio as a guest of Visit San Antonio, the Convention Visitor’s Bureau. They were gracious hosts but my opinions here are my own.