The Big Island of Hawaii isn’t the first place you expect to come across cowboy culture, but paniolos (Hawaiian cowboys) have been roping and riding on the island for over 200 years. It all started in 1793, when British Captain George Vancouver gave Hawaii’s King Kamehameha five longhorn cattle as a gift. Within a few years they had multiplied exponentially and began wreaking havoc on the farmlands of the island, so the King asked a close confidant, a young sailor named John Parker, to round up the animals and develop a system of ranching. Then in the 1830’s, King Kamehameha III visited Mexico and was so impressed by the ranching skills of the vaqueros (Spanish for cowboy)– who spoke español, or “paniolo” in Hawaiian - that he invited several back to Hawaii to teach his people how to work cattle by horseback.  Paniolo culture was born, mixing Mexican customs with a distinctly Hawaiian style.  Hundreds of years later, Paniolo traditions are closely tied to those of the Mexican vaqueros. In fact, many paniolo families still have Spanish last names.

As a horse lover and experienced rider, I knew I had to visit a cattle ranch during my time on the Big Island. I had a few choices, and narrowed them down to Parker Ranch and Na’alapa Stables at Kahua Ranch, which were both near Waimea in the northwest of the island. The 150,000 acre Parker Ranch is the oldest and largest cattle ranch on the Big Island, and one of the largest in the entire US. It still functions as a working cattle farm while also welcoming visitors for historical tours and horseback rides of the property, which is owned by John Parker’s descendants. The nearby Kahua Ranch, established just three years after Parker Ranch, offers rides as well. The ranch is situated at about 3,000 feet above sea level and the winding road that brings guests from the coast up into the verdant green foothills of the Kohala Mountains provides stunning views of the Kawaihae Harbor, the very spot that cattle first arrived on the island over 200 years ago.

I chose to do my ride at Na’alapa Stables at the Kahua Ranch as they were closer to my hotel and offered rides on Sundays (while Parker Ranch is only open Monday to Saturday).  Set among 12,000 acres, Kahua is smaller than Parker Ranch, but you’d never think it as you ride for hours across lush fields with a view to the coast in one direction and the wild forests of the Waipio Valley in the other.  Like Parker Ranch, Kahua is family-owned and operated and many of its current employees have grown up on the Ranch or worked there for decades. The Ranch is home to over 3000 mother cows, 100 bulls and 900 mother ewes at any given time. Kahua also prides itself on its sustainability - as we rode, we passed by windmills and solar panels that harnessed natural energy for the farm.

When I arrived at the Stables, I was offered a hooded sweatshirt (it gets cold at 4,500 feet) and a saddle bag for my camera. Guests can also opt to wear a long duster jacket, a helmet or 10-gallon hat, or a pair of cowboy boots. I was then asked about my experience level and paired up with a suitable horse, a stocky paint named Maka. After a short lesson for the newbies, our group of 8 (including two guides) set out into the pastures. As we climbed higher and higher, I couldn’t stop myself from constantly turning back to gawk at the flawless blue sea spread out below, and the faint shadow of Maui visible in the distance.

After just a few minutes, we passed through a gate into a second field and were given the okay to pick up some speed. We spread out and with just the smallest encouragement, our horses were off and galloping over the hills. For over two hours, we walked, trotted, and cantered throughout the property. Despite a powerful wind at 4,000 feet, we stayed warm in the sun as we learned more about the history of the farm and of cattle ranching in Hawaii. We passed by grazing cattle and playful calves as we worked our way to the edge of the Waipio Valley and then back downhill to the farm. Once we returned, we thanked our horses for the wonderful ride, said goodbye to our guides, and headed back down the mountain to the coast.

From a chilly wind on the top of the mountains, I descended to a balmy day at sea level. And in true Hawaiian style, I followed my horseback experience with a dip in the ocean and a cold refreshing Mai Tai, appreciating the diversity of a place that offers the best of both worlds in one beautiful island.  

___________________________________________________________________

Katie Hammel lives in Chicago with her husband and two very fat cats. Her travel writing has appeared on BootsnAll, Gadling, and the Matador Network. She firmly believes that travel doesn’t have to cost a fortune and that some of the best experiences are completely free..