Discovering Stavanger, Norway

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I recently lived in Stavanger, Norway for two years and loved every moment. I affectionately refer to the area as utopia. Whether you’re in search of the perfect destination for last minute holidays, or want to plan far in advance, this could be the place for you.

The thought of Scandinavia may conjure images of a frozen tundra, but Stavanger is like the ‘California’ of Norway. It is well-situated on the country’s west coast and warmed by the Gulf Stream. At the right time of year, this area enjoys bright sunny days and is bursting with azaleas and sandy beaches. But the most warmth comes from its kind and welcoming inhabitants. Stavanger is the perfect destination for those in search of adventure as well as families seeking kid-friendliness.

A small city, Stavanger can be seen in a few day’s time, but its offerings could keep you there for weeks. With direct flights from Amsterdam and a few other European port cities, it’s also a good jumping off point for entry into Norway if Bergen and Oslo are also on the list (as they should be).

Gamle Stavanger, or Old Stavanger, is in the town center and is rich in history but relatively undiscovered and light on tourists. Start the day at Hotel Victoria with a cup of no-nonsense Norwegian coffee and an elaborate koldtbord (buffet) breakfast, then step out into the narrow cobbled streets lined with 17th and 18th century wooden buildings. Everything from handmade Norwegian sweaters to the most sophisticated electronics populate window displays in this maze of quaint little shops. All roads eventually lead back to the city’s Vågen, a sliver of the North Sea that creates a bustling harbor right in the town square. Though small, it is deep and the harbor hosts cruise ships and trading vessels as high as the tallest surrounding buildings.

During the week, fishermen sell their fresh catch directly from boats and flower stands dot the city square. On Saturdays this ancient inlet is brimming with locals selecting from the Fish Market’s array of seafood. Walking up the hill behind the Vågen brings the delightfully vibrant Farmer’s Market into view. Much of Norway’s food is grown on the outskirts of Stavanger and these industrious farmers are pioneers in hydroponics and greenhouse farming which extends the growing season.

After perusing the area’s bounty, continue up the hill toward the Domkirke, Stavanger’s historic cathedral. Built in 1125, it is one of the best-preserved medieval cathedrals in all of Europe, and is open to the public.

Wind around the back of the cathedral to breathe in the fresh Nordic air and rest on a bench overlooking the city center’s Lake Breiavatnet with a fountain in the center. Now head back down Skagenkaien (street) to N. B. Sørenson’s for a light lunch. Make sure to ask for a bottle of Farris, a specialty local sparkling mineral water. After 15-20 years of trickling through glacier ice, it makes its way to a spring and bottling plant located beneath a forested mountain in a neighboring county… and eventually to your lunch table.

A visit to the Arkeologisk (Archeology) Museum is interesting as the Vikingculture wasone of surprising gender equality for the time. Women were able to inherit property, could serve as speakers at court, and held other important positions in Viking society.This sentiment has continued into modern times and Norway ranks among the highest in parity between men and women lawmakers, and ranks second on the World Economic Forum’s 2007 Gender Gap Report. Norway has also had a woman prime minister.

Also on this side of the harbor you can climb Valbergtårnet, a 19th Century watch tower, for a great view of the historic downtown area. Unlike most European cities, everything is built of wood, so until newer technologies were available, this tower was constantly staffed with people monitoring the rooftops for any sign of fire.

End the day with dinner at Timbuktu, a hip and delicious downtown restaurant right on the Vågen. There are also a bunch of nightclubs around, booze is expensive in Norway and the locals will show up in packs of already tipsy hipsters (who loaded up before leaving home-but fear not, they used public transport). Norwegians are friendly and you’ll have no trouble striking up a conversation, since nearly everyone speaks English throughout the country.

Not to be missed is a hike up Priekestolen, a famous local rock formation jutting out from a cliff overlooking the magnificent Lysefjord. This is a day trip since it takes about an hour to get to the parking area below the hiking trail, and about 4 hours to the top of the mountain. Four hours well worth it. Views like this are not found in many places on this globe of ours. And the photo-op is the biggest payoff.

There are a number of ways, or combinations of ways to get to and from Priekestolen. You can rent a car and drive, or take a ferry, or do both (one way each). Hardcore hikers should also check out Kjerag, another hike with dramatic scenery nearby.

If you’re not up for a trekk, no worries, you can still experience the views of Lysefjord via a relaxing ferry cruise. It’s a three-hour round trip and tickets aren’t very pricey.

Pick up some sandwiches for a packed lunch and fire up a rental car the next day to hit the beach at Solastranden, a 2 kilometer stretch of luxury. Also be sure to visit Sola’s charming hidden ancient church overlooking the North Sea, where all the locals get married. It was badly damaged in World War II and when restoring it, the Norwegians used glass block to replace missing stones. It makes for a bright and airy feeling in what would normally be dark and traditional.

On your way back to Stavanger, make a couple of detours. The first is at the Sverd i Fjell (Three Swords) monument commemorating the Viking battle of Hafrsfjord a thousand years ago. It makes for a great photo. Then scramble a few nearby rocks in a Norwegian person’s garden to see Bronze Age carvings in some huge stones at Fluberget Revheim. Don’t worry, there’s no such thing as ‘trespassing’ in Norway — there’s literally a law allowing people to pass through anyone’s yard (or even camp on one’s land). But don’t worry again…the crime rate is so low that they look at you funny when you ask if that’s dangerous.

Get cleaned up at the hotel and make this truly unique destination unforgettable with a hearty traditional Norwegian dinner beneath rustic timbers in Flor & Fjære, on the private garden island of Sør-Hidle. Only reachable by a 20-minute boat ride, the lush island boasts the nation’s only palm trees - imported of course. It is a vivid example of the industriousness and hospitality of Norwegian people. The proprietor gives a tour of the island before dinner and tells interesting little stories about the island-dwellers of Norway: the social-networking by rowboat, and the grass-topped roofs.

Norway isn’t the cheapest of destinations, but with careful planning it can be done even on a tight budget. Stavanger is a place full of wonderful memories just waiting to be made and should not be missed. You’ll never be the same.  ■

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 Kim Mance is editor-in-chief of Galavanting and based in Chicago, IL. Her other writing on everything from travel, to politics to parenting can be found in places like MarieClaire.com, The Huffington Post, Babble, AlterNet and Women’s Voices for Change. She has lived abroad, is always up for an adventure and has visited 24 countries…so far.

 

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