Parador of Santo Estevo
Sunday, October 25, 2009 at 12:12AM Don’t miss this place —The Parador of Santo Estevo in Spain’s northwestern region of Galicia is one of those places where you begin making plans for a return visit even before you enter the front door.
About 35 kilometers from Ourense, the parador is a former Benedictine monastery dating from the 6th Century. Yes, that’s hard to believe, but historians say the original foundation is that old. Indeed, inside the chapel that serves as the parish church for the surrounding area is an altarpiece that is that old. The “new” altarpiece” that is currently in use is from the Baroque period, only a few hundred years ago.

The building has incredible examples of Baroque and Renaissance architecture. The interior decor is striking. The incredibly modern furniture mixed with the ancient stone seems to complement both styles and, oddly, adds to each style.
The structure is spectacular, but what takes your breath away is the setting. You first see the building after driving up a long road into the hills lining the River Sil. It’s hard not to say “wow” when the granite walls, tile roofs and bell towers become visible through the lush chestnut forest.
The parador Santo Estevo exceeds any images you may have of an elaborate medievil castle. And the setting is truly magical. As fog rises from the river at dusk and floats through the branches of the chestnut trees, you feel as if you’re right in the middle of a fairy tale.

Santo Esteve has a spa with a variety of services. I was disappointed in my massage, but others in my traveling party were pleased with their services. I would suggest asking for someone with a lot of experience if you’re going to get a massage.
One other thing to note: (It’s hard to complain about a place so incredibly special.) The expected wireless internet service was nonexistent. I guess the monks didn’t take that into account when they selected a location in the mountains and chose thick granite stone for their building materials.
Disclosure: This press trip was funded by Spanish tourism offices. For more information, check out www.spain.info. Galavanting contributors and editors always do our best to give an honest review of all destinations and locations visited.
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Terri Colby is a Chicago-based freelance journalist and former Travel and Books editor for the Chicago Tribune. She’s serious about traveling the world but Chicago is the only place she would ever call home. You can reach her at terricolby@gmail.com.













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